In the final entry of his series from Pohnpei, Jonathan Gourlay encounters the island’s devious ailments and powerful cures.

It isn’t a good idea, but Jonathan Gourlay plays with the Queen of Hearts on the island of Pohnpei.

Jonathan Gourlay learns the subtle art of cultivating one’s reputation on Pohnpei.

Memories of family, murderers, and rust haunt Jonathan Gourlay.

Jonathan Gourlay smells sweet as he sits half naked at the center of a feast house on the island of Pohnpei.

Jonathan Gourlay begins to lose himself at a sakau market on Pohnpei, but is saved by a slap.

Jonathan Gourlay engages in deep, penetrating discussion at a sakau bar.

Jonathan Gourlay tries to count in Pohnpeian but never gets past “one.”

Jonathan Gourlay takes Continental Micronesia from Honolulu to Pohnpei in Micronesia.

On the island of Pohnpei in Micronesia, Jonathan Gourlay prepares for his daughter’s kindergarten graduation — or at least tries to.

Jonathan Gourlay attends a traditional feast on the island of Pohnpei in the Federated States of Micronesia.